Laundry standpipe water supply connection

I have roughed in an Oaty laundry box (all drainpiping installed OK), and have a question about the hot and cold supply connections. The vavles have water-hammer arresters attached to the top of them, and there are 1/2" threaded connectsions for the water supply. I saw a completed version of one of these down the street for a house that is under construcion, and noticed that the copper tubes are sweated inside the threaded connections rather than screwed on. This seems like a better approach since this connection will not be accessable once the dry wall is put in place. I disconnected the vavle, and it seems like the 1/2" copper tube does not fit into it, and I guess it must need a 3/8" tube. Should I get a 1/2" to 3/8" and install it this way, or is the threaded version OK?

the bottom of those valves are machined to allow 1/2" copper to fit right in so they can be soldered. it is possible that your are not machined at all. don't use any 3/8" tubing to go inside. solder a couple of 1/2" copper x female adapters onto 12" long pieces of tubing. put about 5 wraps of teflon tape on the threads with some pipe dope smeared on that. tighten the adapters onto the shanks. tighten them really well as thet is a running thread not a tapered thread.

new tub drain

we are replacing the tub drain and overflow, this comes with the stopper where all you have to do is turn it to close. my ? is on the drain part it comes with a rubber washer does this go between the metal part of drain 0r underneath the tub on top of the new plastic pipe. drain screws into pvc pipe. thank you again guys

Think of this in a cross sectional manor:
Top of tub: Metal flange layer of silicone
Beneath tub: Rubber gasket Nut that tightens all of this together
Good to have a second person to help with the tightening process.

rebuilding toilets

i am a not a service and repair plumber, so i dont have much experience with repairing fixtures/faucets. i keep getting calls to rebuilt the insides of toilets. ive been talking some of them into new toilets and some i passed on. i am interested in rebuilding them so i have a good question for all you repair plumbers. what rebuild kit is the best? is there a generic rebuild kit that will work with all brand names? ive rebuilt my own mansfield, but with a mansfield kit..i have a job coming up to rebuild an american standard. do i need a a.s. kit? how long does it generally take you?

I find that if I keep Fluidmaster 400-A's, typical Korky flappers, typical (front mount) toilet handles on the truck, I can repair more than 50% of the toilets I encounter. Then you have all the other 'specialty' toilet rebuild parts that may be needed. Even if your truck is set up strictly for service/jobbing work, it's almost impossible to stock everything. Generally, a basic toilet repair takes less than 20-30 minutes although if it takes less, I still charge my minimum one labor hour rate, plus material.

water flow to kitchen faucet

I have only a trickle of water coming from my kitchen sink faucet. It is a Premiere Brand faucet and from the looks of it rather old. It is a one handle faucet. When I position it to both sides, hot/cold, I still only get a trickle of water. It was working fine yesterday. Water flows fine to the dishwasher. I have also tried to turn off the water valves under the sink but I still get a trickle of water. I am afraid to remove the faucet because for some reason, the valves under the sink aren't turning off the water. My first question is how can I get my faucet to work again? And my second is why can't I shut the water off under the sink? I live in a condo and turning off the water to the building would be a tremendous hassle. Thanks in advance, Chris

remove and clean the aerator located at the end of the spout where the water comes out

main water supply line question

I have 3/4" copper main water line coming from the street. Inside my house, the main water line is down-sized to only 1/2" (so 1/2" feeds my entire house). My question is, to you get any added benefit from increasing the 1/2" pipe to say 1"?...even though the town supply line is 3/4" Thanks

I've seen 3/4" copper water service piping come into the house, then there is a 5/8" (1/2") water meter then it gets increased to 3/4" copper again and all works fine. In your case, in a typically sized home - the water distribution piping, after the water meter should be 3/4" (or larger, it depends on the amount of fixtures). Here, 1/2" is only used to pipe in the second to last fixture when installing H & C water lines in let's say a bathroom group, or when running a line to a hose bibb or similar. Under-sized piping can lead to problems within the system.

Shower Hot Water Flow

When I turn on the shower, as I turn the single knob toward hot, the water completely stops flowing when I get to about 80% full hot. When I turn it back to off there is a clicking sound that I can feel when know is at about 50%.

Sounds like moen posi-temp.Between the handle and the wall plate does the sleeve coming out of the wall look round with a square notch at the top?If so after you remove handle and handle holder from stem .Turn the stem on to the middle position and tap the stem gently like trying to tap the brass straight back into wall with wrench this could free the spool.GoodLuck.

clogged toilet

My son flushed the top half of a plastic easter egg down the toilet. We tried using a manual hand snake to get it out, and it didnt work. Is there anything else we can do to get it out other than taking out the toilet? What do you sugggest?

A pro-grade auger with a retriever head like the one pictured below may do the trick but hard plastic items are usually quite difficult for them.

As suggested a wet dry vac is usually a good choice in removing large items such as this. If not the toilet will probably have to be removed from the floor and a fun acrobatic exercise will ensue. At that point you probably want a pro!

Wierd water leak

I have a customer who says he has a leak, down thru the cavity for the stack, every fall for a couple of days when he turns his hydronic heating system on. House is two storeys + basement and the water ends up on the basement bathroom ceiling. Expansion tank is in the basement and there is no expansion tank upstairs. I was working is the house last week and there were no leaks while I was there.

The system, (forced HW?) is closed and if it were the heating system leaking, it would/should leak constantly since it's under pressure at all times. I'd look elsewhere for the source of the water into the basement ceiling. Sounds more like it's Plumbing related and a pure coincidence that it happens only when he fires up the heat.

Sump Pump Noise

Good evening everyone. I recently had a back-up sump installed into my current system. My original Zoeller pump worked semi quietly (other than the check valve)for the past two years. After the install of the back up it has grown louder and louder. It sounds kind of like an old time dryer buzzer and comes and goes. I have read about "not being primed" and was wondering if this is the problem or if I should head to the store this weekend because it is on it's last leg. Any answers or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all of the useful info over the past few months.

pull the pumps and fire them up dry to see if the noise is motor impeller related.Some times it as simple as the pump not sitting on all feet in pit bottom.Good Luck.

Water pressure question

installed a water softener system including two sediment filters in parallel. To monitor water pressure I installed 2 pressure gauges. One before the filters. The second on the outlet line of the water softener. One thing I have noticed is that the outlet pressures is typically 5-9 psi higher than the inlet. Why would that be?

Defective gauge. There are different quality gauges and the accuracy has a +- tolerance. If you have a "Grade D" 100 PSI. gauge there may be 5 PSI. allowed maybe one reads 5 PSI. high and the other reads 5 PSI. low you'll see a 10 psi difference. If you switch the gauges the readings may be more in line with what you would expect. Really just use them as a referrence. Gauge Accuracy Gauge accuracy and grade are categorized by ASME (ANSI) standard B40.1. Gauges that are "Not Graded" do not meet one of the ASME (ANSI) B40.1 guidelines. For example, a gauge with ±1.5% full-scale accuracy falls between grades A and 1A, so it is listed as "Not Graded." Accuracy Grade ±5% Full Scale D ±2% Mid Scale; ±3% Rest of Scale B ±1% Mid Scale; ±2% Rest of Scale A ±1% Full Scale 1A ±0.5% Full Scale 2A ±0.25% Full Scale 3A NIST Certificates Many gauges are available with a certificate of calibration traceable to the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). This certificate shows you that your gauge has been tested against a gauge certified by NIST and proven to fall within a required tolerance. Certificates have a calibration date and a put-to-service date. Gauges must be calibrated again after a set period of time from the put-to-service date, not the calibration date; they do not begin to fall out of calibration until they are actually put in service. A 3A gauge with NIST certification will cost about $350-400... Do you want that degree of accuracy?

Submersable vs standup sump

I saw the rube goldberg job on the "gotta post this" thread, and it was in line with my post. He's trying to seal his pit. So am I. I have a plastic tub with a three quarter inch lip flush with the cement floor. I was thinking of using 1/4 plexi with holes drilled for the two drain pipes(watchdog backup), and a grommeted hole for the electrical, sealed with a suitable filler gasket material for future removal for maintenance. I would screw the plexi onto the tub lid with a gasket of rubber as a seal. This will only work if I use a submersable sump.(I have a 15 yr old standup now, which rises above the floor level about 10 inches. the float rod issue is why I'm thinking a subm. is the way to go. My longwinded question is, are submersables as good or better than standup pumps?The reason I'm doing this is radon. Should I also put a vent pipe to this assembly to vent the gas outside, or will sealing the sump pit be enough? Thanks , Gary

In the case of radon you should if possible tent and then vent the tent.Sorry if possible use a draw fan on the vent.Radon is not sewer gas and if you have the presence of it you should create as mush negative pressure as possible over this entry area. A draw fan that comes on with the pump would be my best guess for your problem.Good Luck.This seal over the pump seal /lid may seem a extraordinary method .but gas under the slab and it's ability to pass around the sump area should be a concern.

Flowguard vs. the other

Anybody know any real differences between the Flowguard CPVC and the other kind they carry at Lowe's ? Can they be combined?


flowguard is a type of cpvc it has a different 'chemical makup'which is better. you can combine normal and flowguard. flowguard is always more expensive and is the only cpvc that I will use.

Hot water heater woes

My hot water heater was going out so I called my brother who got me another at wholesale prices. So far so good. He made me promise to switch it out myself and not call a plumber (because the plumber didn't get to sell me a hot water heater). No Problem; I'm usually pretty handy. I have the instructions to the old hot water heater and have followed them completely, but it refused to drain! It has been is use for 19 years. We aren't on well water, but after 19 years it could be full of sediment, couldn't it? Any suggestions?

full of calcium!

what can I do?

Remove the drain valve, install a 3/4" nipple with a ball valve on the end, then open the valve and shove a long screwdriver or rod into the heater to dislodge the material. And a plumber would still connect the heater even though he did not furnish it. He might even prefer to do it that way because then he does not have to provide warranty service if you have a problem with the heater.

shower problem

Hello; My shower is equipped with three handles or levers..one for cold water, one for hot and the third to divert water from the tub faucet thru the shower head. Recently the shower head diverter handle was stripped and rotates completely 360 degrees without diverting water thru the shower head. What is the likely resolution for repairing the diverter handle to resume diverting water thru the shower head? I appreciate your time.

more than likely it is the handle stripped. it is an easy fix but you gotta have the same brand handle. handles are not generic. american standard will not fit kohler ect. they do make "fit all" handles but it will look different from the other two.

Reinstalling toilet over new floor

We have just had a new Armstrong cushion floor (and plywood sub-floor) laid in a powder room. Previously the toilet sat flat on the floor (with a small bead of caulking around the base.) Now however, the plumber (contracted by the flooring company to remove and re-install the toilet) said it required shims on one side to be level, leaving it sitting about 1 cm. or 1/3" above the new slate-patterned floor at the front. He filled the gap very badly with silicone caulk. I am not happy but where does the blame lie? The plumber says the floor is uneven, and the flooring company claim they just were responsible to lay the sub-floor and new flooring? Where should I start? (The sub-floor was laid directly over the previous peel-and-stick type vinyl tiles -- there was no obvious slope, and no squeaking, etc.) Why shouldn't it sit the same way on the floor?

There's a difference between level and even. If your floor is out of level, it's most likely at the frame and was this way with your old floor. As long as the floor was even under the old toilet (left/right or front/back sides are in line with eachother) it was probably sitting fine. New plumber comes along and sets your new toilet and actually levels it, thus the need for shims to bring the low side up to level. No big deal as long as it's sealed.

leaking bathtub faucet

I have an old (possibly the original from 1954) fixture on my tub. It has separate handles for hot and cold, and a third in the center to switch from the tub to shower output. I understand in doing a little research that this is most likely a compression style faucet. I'm not sure, however, if the insides will be brand specific, or if I can just go to my local box store and get some sort of generic kit to fix it. There is no name on the faucet, just a symbol on the center handle. I thought from the symbol that it was maybe delta, but checking their website, it appears their symbol is different. Maybe this is just an older one? Anyways, I've included a little drawing of the symbol in hopes someone could identify it. Thanks in advance.

the symbol is just an indicator to tell you tub or shower. if it points up, shower. if it points down, tub. there are no generic parts available as faucet "innards" replacements. you can change the washers and the screws that hold the washers but that's about it for generic parts. if the stems and seats are worn, you gotta get exact replacements. these are available as OEM parts or as lower cost imported parts. post a couple of pictures of the handles and someone might be able to ID the valve manufacturer.

Commode Question

I have a question regarding resale/re-use of older non-watersaving commodes. Recently I replaced a very old commode for one of my customers. Keeping with my policy, I dispose of all debris and such unless the customer asks otherwise. The customer was curious as to how I would dispose of it. I explained that it would be broken up, I would recover the brass flush valve and ballcock for scrap, then the china would be burried in a landfill that accepts building materials. She wondered why I didn't take it to a local non-profit recycler that accepts donations of salvaged building materials and re-sells them. I told her that I had taken sinks and tubs there in the past, but it was my understanding that by federal law, a "non water saving" commode can't be re-sold or for that matter be re-installed anywhere other than at a property owned by the commode's original owner. My question, does anyone know where I can find a copy of this regulation, if there is one? If not, can they be re-sold? Perhaps for display purposes or as planters.


Good question. I think the local code people sometimes have an issue with "used" sanitary fixtures. But you do see them in all the salvage yards, so it seems people are using them. I don't think in general you are doing anyone a favor with an old toilet unless it falls into the "anitique" category. A toilet from the mid to late eighties is most likely a junker. Around here, they take old toilets at the recylcle facility. The porcelain gets ground up and used as an aggregate in asphalt paving mix, so they are not filling up the landfills.

Outside faucet in wall water leak

Spring has sprung a leak. When my outside faucet is off not leaking. When turned on it is leaking around the water pipe coming through the brick wall. Could it be anything except a leak in the pipe?

It would be similar in design to the faucet pictured below. It actually shuts off way back inside the wall by the end of the tube. The tube is what splits when it freezes. Normally as long as the hose is disconnected over the winter the faucet will not freeze. The tube should also be pitched downward toward the outside was to facilitate it draining dry so it can't freeze up.

If you're lucky the installer used a threaded adapter to connect the frost proof sillcock. Odds are not in your favor though!

Leach Field

Hello, I had my septic tank drained (1700 gals) last Wednesday. 72 hours later I had the same pumping service come back to install an 18 inch riser on the tank clean out and discovered the tank was COMPLETELY full again! A big surprise to me! It makes me think that the leach field is working Great but in the wrong direction! Sometimes. There is no way that two loads of the dishwasher, four showers and two loads of laundry could fill the tank. Just not possible. The lay of the land is sloped east to west with the leach lines running along that axis. The first and second floor toilets seem to be draining OK as do all the other appliances. But I am concerned about the static pressure of the water in the out-flow pipe. etc. etc. Is there any cause for my concern? Thanks in advance for your advice.

What did the plumber who installed the riser pipe say???Sometimes the septic company must remove the septic contents and then return the solids free water back into the tank.Depending on the age of your tank and construction method the bottom of the tank could be bad.Again what did the septic company say about the tank,the amount of solids in the tank,You could have a drain field problem.You may have to dig up the outlet side of the tank to confirm the problem.Good Luck. Let us know if you have further questions.Yes if water is standing in the inlet pipe to the tank it is a problem.

hot water line to garage

A weird one for you all. I've got a fully insulated (but not heated) garage. It's never gotten below freezing in there (according to the thermometer in there and judging by the water that melts off the snow of the car in winter). Anyway, the garage shares a wall with the basement. I was wondering about putting some sort of mixing valve in the garage so that I could have hot and cold water (mixed to warm) to wash the car with. (no, not washing the car in the garage, but hooking a hose up to it). I saw a faucet that would accomplish this, but I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to run a hot water line to the garage (obviously I'd have to get approval from my local building dept. and they may or may not veto it---we can't even have floor drains in our garages).

i see no problem as long as it is set up properly to be winterized effectively

Water and sewer cap detail

I have been asked to 'clearly show' how the the water and sewer lines are being capped on a drinking fountain that is being removed for a plumbing drawing. Can anyone link me to a detail to that effect if it exists. Never been asked to supply such a thing, I assumed it was a pretty straightforward procedure.

It is ,draw the wall.Indicate the drain line,and the water line.Draw in a sch4o cap on the dwv,and a pressure cap on the water supply behind the wall thickness.Good Luck.THIS part is for the stickler inspector,the line of water that feeds this capped unit should terminate at as close as is possible to it's origin.This makes things harder but should be done to protect the rest of the water supply system. Since the pool is clean and i have nothing else to do .If the waste line is not deep enough in the wall,or the branch arm dose not expose enough pipe to allow for capping.You must remove the sanitary tee ,and connect the waste vent pipe without the tee.Locating the supply origin is a little more complicated.It will most often come from the most central cold supply manifold.Some times this rule of thumb may be remiss .The plumber would have looked to supply this low flow fixture from the nearest code compliant source possible.that manifold would be the best place to cap the line.Again Good Luck.

Shower drips minutes after turning off

Hi, I had a Moen single handle mixer valve installed in a new shower stall several months ago and recently noticed that several minutes, anywhere from 5 - 15, after turning off the shower the water left in the pipe between the valve and the shower head will run out. It only drips for a few seconds until the line is empty then stops, there is no lingering drip. Any idea what is causing this and if it is somethign to be concerned about? Thanks,


Most likely that it is just water in the head its self .Try rubbing your finger on the face of the head next time you shut it of to see if this water evacuates the head.There are other possibilities but the newer heads seem to be holding water.You could remove the head to test this also.Good Luck.

move toilet

Hi guys, buddy of mine is remodeling the powder room and replacing the standard toilet with a corner unit. The closet flange needs to move about 4" toward the back wall.

Here's what it looks like:

The closet flange needs to move toward the ladder in the photo.

Here's another shot from the basement:

The challenge is that there's no straight runs from the soil stack....where would you boot it to PVC? I suggested cutting the cast iron on the long sweep 90 about 2" past the tee hub off of the main stack (it's a long sweep 90 and looks like a boot would seal there). What do you guys think? Do you need the special tool to score/snap the cast iron or can you do it with a swaz-all?

Thanks in advance....is this a DIY or is a call to a pro in order?

Unless the cast that is in place is leaking now or shows signs of leakage in the past why not leave it and cut the lead out at the wipe joint and be creative with a couple of 22's or ST 22's reattach it with the properly sized mission band (You will need one that is 4" CU to 4" Plastic) at the wipe joint connection point, that is after you remove all of the left over portions of the wipe. Cut at least 2" from the cast making sure to leave enough to attach the mission band to.