Copper Gage For House Water Lines Usage ?

Hello,

Live in a 35 year old house outside of Boston.

Had a leak in a Copper water pipe that the plumber finally found.

Unfortunately, I forgot to ask him if it was in a hot or cold line, as this might, perhaps, be meaningful ?

Anyway, what surprised me was that it was pinhole leak in the middle of a run.
Not at a joint or fitting, etc. Right in the middle of a line.

Apparently they used the thinnest Copper they could find when they built the place.

I used a caliper on it, and found it to be 0.028, which I guess is a grade M. (outside diameter of 5/8 inch)

But, it still should take the household pressure without any problem, I would think. True ?

The plumber replaced it with heavier wall stuff of approx. 0.038, which is probablyType L

Questions:

a. What might make a pinhole leake in the middle of a clear run ?
I guess the pinhole can be considered as a corrosion type of breakthrough.

b. How common is something like this is the thinwall Type M tubing ? What causes ?

c. 35 years ago, was this (Type M) a common Copper gage they used for household hot and cold water lines ?

d. Is it still allowed, or the Code prohibits it now all over ?

Any thoughts on this would be most appreciated.


Type M copper is definitely thinner and if you have it in your house you can expect more leaks in the future. In NH we had it ok'd by the code back in the 80's and then removed from the code. It is however used for heating pipes as they do not carry the same oxygen or minerals and abrasion as water pipes do. Unfortunately for us, we changed to IPC a few years ago and they allow the use of type M for potable water. Do I use it, NOT. Only for heating.
Unfortunately for you, You live in Mass. Just kidding, But Mass has its own code and I never applied for a Mass license so I am not sure of your code regarding copper piping. I have always known Mass to be a little more stringent than NH and I would think it is not allowed on potable water anymore. Just call you town building inspector.
And most copper is going by the wayside since the cost has been driven sky high and the addition of newer plastic water pipes.

I had a customer years ago that had this problem. I was recommended by his insurance agent. I fixed the leak. They fixed the ceiling, wall, flooring, and paint. The only thing the insurance does not cover is the plumber.
The next year and the following next two years we fought the same battle. I am a friend of the Ins agency, so I asked my friend, why don't you just pay me to go in and replace all the piping and you will only need to fix everything else once. He said that is not the way the Insurance companies work. Kind dumb huh

Can not take off the old Showerhead

I'm trying to replace my old (6 months old) showerhead with a new one. However, I can't take out the old one.
I tried using the pipe wrench first, didn't work. Then I tried locking pliers, but it didn't move.
The problem it seems is that plumbing putty/glue (or whatever it is called) was used when it was installed.

I tried Acetone, vinegar, but it just won't budge.

It isn't rusted or anything like that. I know it is just that sticky thing that once you get on your hands seems impossible to remove.

Any ideas on what to do?


I would remove it completely from inside the wall. Get a new shower arm and flange. Cheap money.

Can I cut cpvc with a regular tubing cutter?

Is it ok to cut cpvc or other plastic pipe with a traditional tubing cutter, the C-shaped type with a cutter wheel that you spin around the pipe?

I've seen references to special plastic cutting wheels for these, but haven't found any in actual stores.

I just want to make sure I'm not going to have any headaches down the road (for instance, cracked cpvc from using a ratcheting cutter in cold temperatures).

If I shouldn't use my old tubing cutter, what's the best option for a straight cut (rather not freehand with a saw) for somebody who is only going to do this a couple of times (don't want to buy an expensive tool if I don't have to)?


I know I have tried cutting PVC with my cutter, but the cutting wheel is not big enough to go through. Cpvc is thinner walled so it may work. I usually just use a good hacksaw with a new blade.
They also sell hand held ratcheting cpvc cutters/ I think they are under $20.00

Water main

The water main getting into the house has a leak that I would like to repair. The pipe is the black plastic pipe 1"( CTS or similar). I did the damage when digging for a new addition.
I'm trying to use two compression fittings and in between the fittings PVC or copper since to be able to use the same type of pipe that I have I need to buy 200'.
My question it is possible to do it the way that I have explained or is there other way?


cut a small peice off the pipe. take it with you to the plumbing supply store. not home depo. and ask them to give you some barb fittings to fit this.

please help me plumb this, easy for you.

tuesday we are getting our new granite and undermount stainless single bowl i am installing a new 5/8 hp insinkerator disposal. please see pic. i would like to remove the double drain and make it a single. is it possible to unscrew the Y=pipe and put new pipe there ?


yes...pull all that stuff out of there. leave the wye.
you will most likely have to cut the pvc pipe inbetween the wye and the p-trap and add a 45 degree bend to get to the disposal. i would do this after you install the disposal. so that you have a clear start and stop point. [ where the old chrome trap was, put a threaded cap on the adapter.
this will be a clean out point. from now on.] you will need to buy a 1 1/2 inch extension .to add to the top of your p-trap to the disposal connection
put your disposal on the sink, use plumbers putty. on the drain in the bowl of the sink, grab a chunk of puddy and roll it in your hands to make a snake like string. put around strainer
in bottom of sink. install disposal as directions say. hook p-trap up to the black 90 degree plastic disposal connection
and thats it if ya need more help just ask.

Sleeving Foundation Pipe Penetrations

For the water inlet (1") and waste outlet (4") penetrations in the foundation, what is used for a sleeve? Something special, or just the next largest pipe size? If it matters, the foundation is block.


For the 4" pipe penetration, What I usually do for a nice clean sealed waterproof sleeve, I get a piece of 6" SDR-35, pvc, or cast iron if you have it. Then I use Waterplug, (hydrolic cement), and Waterplug all around the sleeve. You can also put tar over that when dry. Run the 4" pipe through the sleeve with a 4" x 6" Fernco coupling on the outside of the foundation. This way you have a waterproof and vermin proof sleeve. And it leaves some flexibility in the pipe.

You can basically do the same with your 1" pipe and a 2" piece of pvc pipe. Where I live we need to put the water pipes below the foundation because of freezing, so we don't usually need to do those.

Slow Lavatory Drain That Is Not Clogged....

Hi Everyone, I Am Dealing With My SINK Drain In My Master Bath That Is Not Draining Past My P-trap. Something Is Not Right But It Is Definately Not A Clog , I Have Cleaned All The Way To The Main Drain. It Still Only Takes A Very Small Amount Of Water To Back Up Into Sink And It Drains Real Slow. Please Help I Am Lost!!!


Does it do this with the stopper completely removed?

I've run into lav drains all the time that when the stopper is partially up, the water sits there and glurps it's way down in increments. Like the little opening is surrounded by an air bubble. And as soon as you pull out the stopper, or raise it higher, the water rushes down the drain.

Probably the likely cause of this phenomenon (that *I* spoke of) lies in the fact that if the air entrance area at the stopper is smaller than the area of the trap filled with water, that not enough air is available to allow the water out of the trap and down the drain. Generally in proper vented lavs, the vent pipe tees upward (the drain heads downward) in the wall, and either goes straight up or again tees over toward the main vent stack where the entire venting is dry vented.

If it is not this, then it is probably a venting issue.

pipe leak help needed!!!!!!!

I am building a new house and am ready to put up drywall, we did a pressure test on the plumbing and at 120 psi was losing 5 pounds a day of air pressure on the line. could not find any air leaks at all after checking extensively.

put water on the lines and purged all the air out and put 140 psi of water on the lines, the pressure stayed the same for 4 days and on the 5th and 6th day dropped about 3 psi each day, I have checked every fitting and inch of the line and can find NO leaking water.

does anyone have any suggestions as what to do or look for, or am I missing something, I was leaning towards blaming it on the guage or the valve but I am not seeing any water on it either so I am stumped

any ideas how much water would be leaking to drop it 3 psi a day

any help appreciated!!!!!!!!!!


First, do not write off your pressure gauge yet. Have you tested anything with soapy solution? It is best if you use gas leak detector, but dish soap and water will work, just not quite as well.

Start at your gauge assembly, then work your way to ALL joints throughout the piping.
Keep the pressure around 100psi.
What you are looking for is any large bubbles or any really tiny bubbles, I call it a beard, as it resembles one. 3-5lbs per day will most likely be one or two real small leaks
Also don't forget about you tub/shower valves. Did you plug off the shower head and tub spout? They must be plugged in case you are losing the pressure through the valve. Also, if you have any ball valves with nothing on one end, it should also be capped. Trust me, they are not always perfect.
I have pulled my hair out, (must be why I am half bald) many times, and have on occasion needed to test 2 or 3 times before I finally find the leak.

Also, just because you have put water into the system, does not mean it will produce the leak. If the leak is at the end of the line and there is an air pocket, it will not show up as water for a long time.

Also if all fails. Make sure there is not a large change in the outside temperature as it can have an effect on the pressure. I have even had the pressure go up if I tested in the morning and it became extremely hot in the afternoon.

Main Drain Blockage

I'm dealing with a store front about 50 or 60 feet long. There is no cellar and no second floor. There are 2 bathrooms side by side towards the back of the building. The main drain is buried in the concrete slab. The trap is about 50 feet away just before the front wall. The trap is not a typical trap. It looks more like a clean-out. I removed the cap closest to the toilet and there is a pipe the goes down at least 2 feet. I can see about an inch of water at the bottom.

The problem is both toilets are clogged. I removed them and tried to snake it but the snake just goes from one side to the other. It won't make the turn towards the front of the building and the same thing if I try to snake it from the trap. I can't get the snake to turn toward the toilets. I've been using hand snakes and I'm about to try an electric snake as soon as I can get one. I also tried heavy duty drain cleaner in the pipe after I removed the toilets.


it sounds to me like they are back to back toilets, and you can't get down the cross.your gonna have to go down the vent. if you can't get in any other way. it should be a sheetrock ceiling. but can you see up in the ceiling,from the hallway? to see if the vent goes straight up. you go on the roof, and snake down. or cut the rock, and install a access door. behind the tank

Remove Solder Pipe to Bathroom Sink

I am planning on replacing my vanity and vanity top. I have turned off both the hot and cold water under the sink. However the copper pipes running up to the faucet & sink have been solder onto the shutoff valves. I want to remove them so that I can lift off the sink and remove the vanity, however, I'm not sure how. The shutoff valves are in good shape and I would like to keep them, just remove the solder copper tubing.

Once the new vanity and vanity top are in place I want to use flex tubing to reconnect the faucet. Is this possible, if so how and what do I need?


If the shut off valves are 1/2" copper x 3/8" compression then it will be worth saving them only if they are fairly new.

Un-soldering is kind of an art.
First you need to make sure there is no water in the pipes. To do this, you will need to shut off the main valve coming into the house, then open the lowest faucet you can so the water will drain below where you are working if possible.

Disconnect the supply tubes from the valves and open them up. If you have stops coming out from the wall. you may need to dis-assemble them to remove the water in them. If they come straight up from the floor, you will be ok.

Now, the trick to un-soldering is not to overheat or under heat. If you over heat the valve it will lock up on you. Then you will need to let it cool down and try again. If you don't heat it enough, the solder wont melt and you will not get the valve off either.

Unless you have some soldering experience or you are really broke, I would recommend cutting the old stops off and replacing them with new. You can also get them in 1/2" compression x 3/8" compression so you will not even need to solder at all.


As long as you have a 3/8" compression stops, you can hook right up to the valve/stops and the faucet with a flex line. Just get it the correct length and make sure it is for a lav, not a toilet. (different size nuts)

Hot Water NOT Recirculating

When I leave town, I shut off the water supply and the recirculating hot water valve in my house and turn it all back on when returning. I've done this for ten years for ten days at a time and it has always worked. This last time, after 15 days gone, I only get enough hot water for a shower before it gets cold. The far reaches of the house don't get any hot water. I have two 40-gallon gas-fired hot water heaters hooked to an Amtrol expansion tank, and a timer. All components are working but hot water is not recirculating. Does anyone have a solution as to what might be causing this problem (besides being gone too long)?


do you have a aqua stat, telling the pump what to do?
if not, get one. it saves energy.
have you check the heaters out, are they running right?
you might want to check the pump, is it pumping. or just
running.

this is off, point. how are you heaters piped? for a dual system, or a lead-lag system. to proform correctly, the heaters must be piped identical, with in 5 feet of the heaters.
if the heaters are 5 ft apart the pipping must bull head tee
2ft 6 in from each heater. and the same on the supply.
water seeks the path of least resistance, if piped correctly,
you will benefit the use of both heaters, if not . one will just be an expensive storade tank. a mechanical engineer, schooled me in this,

very poor water flow?

I just bought a house that was built in 1952, and when i had it inspected, the guy that came out did'nt say anything about poor water flow. Now the i'm in the house, i'm having a huge problem with the plumbing. There is a strong flow of hot water in the kitchen sink, with almost no cold water at all. Its exactly opposite in the bathroom (great cold water flow, bad hot water) The water coming out is just a trickle, almost nothing. I'm guessing a re-piping may be needed, but does anyone have any clues?


Unless the pipes are galvanized steel, it likely is not the pipes. Usual places for restrictions are faucet washers, shutoff valves not fully open, clogged aerators on faucets, etc. Not a bad idea to cyle all shutoff valves off/on, lubricate the valvestems, tighten packing nuts. This helps break up deposits that may accumulate. Then remove aerators and open faucets full to flush out debris.

In a house that old, pipes could be steel, not good.

Water Softener Installation

I'm a new member here, but a long time DIY'er. I posted this thread last week over on "Filters and Conditioners" and the thread only got attention from water softener guys (mainly Kinetico). Since my questions really relate to plumbing, I thought I'd give it a try over here. Oh, and please don't hold my "plumber" comment against me...it's a joke!

"I just bought a used Kinetico water filtration system online and it's scheduled for delivery soon. I am mentally preparing myself to either install it myself or worse, to pay a plumber to install it.
I am also considering calling the local Kinetico dealer to install it so that they can verify it has the correct metering discs, etc. to ensure it works for my family's water usage, and to test the hardness and chlorine content of the treated water to verify the effectiveness of the resin and the carbon in the used system.
Can anyone offer advice on what kinds of questions I should ask an installer before allowing them to install the system and how much I might anticipate paying a plumber and/or Kinetico dealer to install the system?
Note: The system will be installed in my garage against the wall where the water main should be entering the house, and next to my sprinkler system control panel. I assume the plumbing can be done with minimal digging and only a couple of penetrations drilled through the brick."

An additional question...many of the posts I've seen have the water softener discharge running into a drain in the floor. Since I don't have one in my garage, I'm assuming I can drain through the side wall next to where the water will come into the garage. Question: Will my house drain (sewer) come out from under the house in the same place the main water line comes in? And should my water softener drain into the sewer, or can I have it run into a buried watershed pipe that drains to my street and into the gutter? This pipe carries rain water from my backyard drains.


Let me explain about water softeners,

I have installed many of them and know absolutely nothing about how they work. Installation is easy, gut if you have never been trained to adjust them properly, you could be throwing your money down the tubes. It is just a part of plumbing I never got into.

Make sure you have someone qualified to install and properly adjust and work on them.

People have asked if I will or can hook them up and I say yes, but after that you are on your own.


I do not know of any reason you cannot run the discharge line into the street drains. It is only water. But I would check with the town first.

Floodchek vs. stainless vs. rubber washing machine hose with Watts Intelliflow

I'm moving into a new house with a third floor laundry, and I'm really paranoid about avoiding floods. And I know my wife and I will not remember to turn off the washing machine supply valves.

I'm planning to install a Watts Intelliflow automatic shutoff valve (A2C-M1 valve with KA2-BD retrofit kit). I'm not sure what I should do about hoses though. I'd be glad to hear any thoughts on these choices:

1. Rubber hoses that come with machine. They have a 90* elbow/gooseneck on one end, which I think I'm going to need due to tight clearance. And besides the washer owner's manual says I should only use genuine LG hoses. Is this all I need since I'll have the fancy shutoff valve?

2. Braided stainless hoses. These can be had with the built-in gooseneck too (not sure how easy these are to find though).

3. Floodchek hoses, supposed to last 20 years (not too expensive here: http://www.lowcostlaundryequip.com/c...tem_num=183225). Are these really better than the stainless ones? These have straight connectors on them -- can I use any old brass elbow to get my 90* bend (like ones sold for RV water hookup)? What would the extra connections with the separate elbows do to my chances of a leak? I like the idea of not having to access the back of the machine to change hoses for a long long time.


Ditch the rubber. Or replace them every 5 years or so.

If yer a belt and suspenders guy go with the flood stop hoses, but be advised some folks have had issues if the water pressure is a bit high. Also I noticed a bit of reduced flow in my admittedly non-scientific test.

I'd go stainless with the auto shutoff valve myself. Does it have a battery backup?

More importantly, do you have the washer pan and drain installed?

Using bleach to disolve what's left in the drain

A 2nd floor kitchen drain clogged for a 2nd time in the almost 30 years I have lived here. The pipes are cast iron.
What was done the first time was to drill a hole in the 2 1/4" OD pipe in the basement (a vertical drop from the sink, except for one double 45 degree elbow) so a snake could work down and up. This was done by a plumber.
That did the trick as it lasted over 15 years untill 2 days ago. I did the same thing with the hole (that was taped up with duct tape) except it didn't work from just the basement. I did the same from the sink end, but it took a 2nd try with the aid of flushing water down at the same time.

I have a decent flushing sink drain (for now), but I want to flush out all the left over residue I fealt with my finger in that hole along the full length of the pipe. It was suggested to use a few gallons of bleach pouring it directly down the drain.

I did a search using "bleach", but got posts regarding only smell issues. Just knowing the pipe is still layered with that nice looking (and smelling) black paste the whole length is what I want to clear out to reduce this from happening sooner.

Two side questions;
'Acid' cleaners are only sold to plumbers, correct?
What is available to Joe Average are 'bases'?


If your clog is mostly kitchen debris like grease I'd try an enzyme based drain cleaner which should eat the built up grease etc all the way to the pipe wall.Use as directed...it does take a sort of step by step process and some time.

If it's rust from the iron pipe that's a different story.I'm not sure any product would really help you very much.

Acid drain openers are regulated differently by locality etc.In my area you can buy it at hardware stores etc.You need to check local code.I doubt it would do much for you until you had another clog.It isn't that great for build ups....and is hazardous etc.

There are stong non acid products around that are pretty good but many are regional etc.Products like Drano etc are generally weaker and could be ok for maintaining a drain but not too great for hard clogs.

Forget the bleach.

Pipe loosening tricks?

I am replacing a 2 inch bathroom drain pipe that is rusted out on the botton side all the way through. It has rusted out all the way down to the connecter that connects it to the toilet and shower drains so I cannot simply cut it off, and I can't seem to get it loose. I am also not sure if it is steel or lead pipe. Any tips or tricks to loosenoing a stubborn pipe? it is a tight space so i don't have alot of leverage.


Well, first off there is a huge difference between lead pipe and galvanized pipe.

Secondly, have you used pipe wrenches? Can you use a torch to heat it up?

If you are using a pipe wrench, you want to make sure you are touching 3 points on the wrench, not just 2, otherwise you could be crushing and ovaling the pipe.

Also have you tried to spray with a penetrating oil?

3" toilet flange extension

Hi,
I plan to insulate an existing concrete slab floor with 2" tuff R insulation, couple that with 3/4" plywood and I have buried the existing toilet flange almost 3". I have seen many posts about extensions of just an inch or so but none with this kind of a requirement. Do I have to dig up the concrete floor or is there a way to extend that flange up 3"?


Well, unfortunately for you I have never heard of a 3" flange extension. I would do the right thing and cut out the old flange and replace it at the correct height. They do make a tool, that can cut out pvc pipe from inside a fitting if yours is set up accordingly. Then you would only need to glue in a piece of pipe and a new flange. The tool is sold at most plumbing stores.

"Flood Proof" water supply lines problem.

I put the "flood safe" water supply lines on 3 toilets and 6 sinks. They are the new braided kind that have a little piece in them that is supposed to detect a water burst or leak and shut off automatically to try to limit water damage. Problem is, on the toilets, when I flush them and water starts to shoot back in, the lines are automatically shutting off the supply. I've even tried opening up the valves only partially, but it still happens. Any ideas?


Some flush valves have an adjustment screw for the refill speed of the tank. Try closing that down some. If you do not have one, just for testing purposes, hold the float up unit almost closed and see what happens.

Popping from pipe after water gone down

Can anyone in the know tell me what they think is going on with my pipe? When letting water go down the plug hole from the sink in my bathroom it makes this loud popping noise during and after the water has gone down the pipe. This is the only place in the house where this noise occurs only down this one pipe. It is an open hole where the plug goes due to the 'pop up' plug not working and I think someone has dropped something down there - such as a toothpaste cap (as I have retrieved from it in the past) and I am wonder if some blockage would make this noise with the water unable to pass through easily. The worst thing is that I have a really soaking carpet surrounding the sink just in front which seems to be getting worse every day after the water has run down and am also wondering if there is a way that the water could be spurting out of a pipe up onto the wooden floor above which is also soaking. Does this sound feasible and how do I get around this? Should a plumber be called and would it be a big job do you think?


If your floor is getting wet and the drain is making funny noises, unless you can see a physical leak under the toilet, I would think you need to call in a pro on this one.

Frost-free faucet

I have a frost free faucet in my garage that was installed about one year ago. The stem inside the faucet has a sliding rod with a rubber hood and a washer on the end. At first it worked fine, but now when I turn it on no water comes out. Sometimes if I wait the flow will start. I have taken it apart several times and it will work once or twice and then stop again. It seems that the sliding rod may not have enough water pressure to slide and open the valve although the flow is strong when the valve works. Any ideas?


Have you completely removed the stem from the faucet? When you did, did you have someone turn on the water in the basement and flush out the line?
Did you find anything wrong looking of the stem parts? was the washer attached to the end? It should be.

That is where I would start.

Toilet water supply valve leaking big time

Lived in this house 14 yrs. This valve (Wolverine Brass) was closed and reopened 1 time by a reputable plumber for a toilet repair. Yesterday an inspector checked out the house prior to sale. Today I tried to flush the toilet: cistern empty. Valve closed. So I opened the valve. Water comes into the cistern but also leaks unto the floor - fast!. Before I go into the crawlspace, turn off the main and take 2 wrenches to this thing, can someone tell me what may have gone wrong? This valve seems to have 2 packing valves, one right under the handle, then what looks like a washer, then a wider but thiner hex nut, then another thin washer, then the body of the valve. When I turn the handle, the stem, the washer and both nuts turn. The leak is between the wider hex nut and the valve body. The whole assembly is bright and shiny, no corrosion, looks almost new. Thanks


The first smaller nut is the packing nut. The larger nut is what holds the valve together. Do not open all the way when the water is on or you will get wet/SOAKED. If after tightening the large nut back up, the water does not stop leaking, I would replace the valve.

Septic gas smell on second floor

Have the smell of septic gas on the second floor only of my house. After many expierments have narrowed down when it happens, but cannot figure out the connection.

Master bath on second floor has toilet, shower, and 2 sinks. Only when I use one of the sinks, approx 2-4 minutes later the smell of septic gas comes out of the upstairs floor registers.

About a week ago, the weather cooled in my area, so I shut off the forced air fan, and during the week the fan was off had no issues with the smell.

Fan is back on now, and ONLY when this one sink is used, the smell comes back for a short while. The other sink, toilet and shower in this bathroom are used daily.

What would be the connection between using this one sink and the septic gas smell flowing thru the forced air system?


It sounds like you have an open line someplace. Could be a cleanout cover that fell off or was not tightened. I would be looking for something around the ducting system. Hopefully it is not between floors.

flushmate water pressure too strong

have a flushmate in toliet,but when u flush it the water swirls around the top and comes out of the bowl. need to know how to fix problem.


I just went through Flushmates web site and could not find anything about over pressurization.

Here is there site
http://www.flushmate.com/

0.4 Gallons per hour registering on my water meter

I didn't turn on any faucets nor flush any toilets and I turned off the ice maker in the refridgerator.

Should my water consumption theoretically be zero gallons in this case?


Yes, but you may have a slow leak somewhere, or a leaky toilet flapper. Sprinkler system valve leaking by?

Try turning off the shutoff valves to the toilet, see if usage goes to zero.

Is the little vane spinning in the water meter (assuming you have a little vane)?

dishwasher - pvc supply to metal connection

hello:

i am installing my dishwasher. I installed 1/2inch PVC (the water supply type) for my kitchen, hot and cold.

For my dishwasher, it is requesting a 3/8inch elbow and then copper pipe from there to the supply.

Can I purchase the flexible tubing (like you see in bathrooms but longer for a dishwasher) and connect that to my pvc supply?
if so how do i go about this?

I ask because I have a pvc shut off valves connect to my pvc supply. It is threaded but I am not sure - nor confident - that connecting a threaded metal end to a threaded pvc supply would not leak?

thank you for any insight.


If it is a 1/2" female threaded valve, you can get a brass fitting that is 1/2" MaleIPS to 3/8" compression adapter. Then get a flex dishwasher kit from the big box stores and it should include the fitting for the dishwasher. If it does not, the fitting you want is a 3/8" MaleIPS x compression 90*. You then hook the fitting to the dishwasher and the flex line.

Simmonds or Mowen valve?

I have to replace the mowen valve. Is simmons valve better then the Mowen or does it matter? Is one harder to install then the other?


I have been installing Symmons, Delta, and Moen valves for many years. Some plumbers love Symmons, I don't. They are ugly, and have there share of problems too.

I think Moen is an excellent faucet and have never had any problems with servicing them. Yup, you need a special plastic tool that they give you with every faucet that needs one and with the replacement cartridges. I also find there design to be quite plain.

Personally, when it comes to tub/shower faucets I find I like Delta the best. They have nicer looking faucets, They appear to work well, and relatively competitive in price.

When it comes to lav and kitchen sink faucets i have had more problems with Delta and would choose Moen.

All three give a lifetime warranty against leaks or finish

Garage Sink

I'm planning the installation of a garage sink. I am on the fence about if I need to worry about freezing pipes and drains. At about $50 to put heat tape on the supply lines and trap I think it might be worth the piece of mind.

Three questions:
one - can I put it on a PVC drain trap?
two - should I run the tape into the wall beyond the insulation?
three - can I wrap plastic supply lines?

Thanks in advance.


How cold does it get in Northern Kentucky?

It gets pretty cold here in NH

Question 1 - Yes you can wrap plastic drains and traps.
Question 2 - Not if you cannot access it whenever needed. Heat tape goes bad and needs to be checked and replace occasionally.
Question 3 - To my knowledge, yes you can wrap plastic water lines


NOTES:

Make sure you read all manufacturers instructions on how to run the tape, how long. Etc..
I like the brand Frostex, because you cut it to the length you need, then put on an end.

Delta single handle ball type tub and shower faucet

I have a water leak from the spout in the tub/shower which has a Delta single handle ball type tub and shower faucet. I want to replace the seats and springs which are located in the faucet body(housing) behind the ball with a stem. I had no problem in removing the crystal handle, but I could not loose the cap behind the handle that holds the ball and stem in place. I was advised that I should just use a minimum pressure, otherwise I will end up turning the faucet body along with the cap, and twist and break the three small copper tubings on the faucet body and will have a big problem on my hand. I can not stabilize the faucet body with another wrench when I try to turn the cap because there is no access to it. The Delta Hotline suggested that I should pour hot vinegar on the cap and wrap it with a towel for a least 40 minutes to loosen the calcium deposits on the threads inside. Has anyone tried this or has a better suggestion. Your reply will be very much appreciated.


Yes, you do need to be careful when removing that cap as suggested. You do not want to put too much pressure and oval the cap or you will never get it off. You can try any kind of CLR to help loosen up the calcium deposits. You do want to make sure that you do not spin the faucet body. There have been a few cases where I was unable to repair the faucets and had to replace them. I use channel lock pliers to remove the cap.

Running out door water line

Hello, I'm planning to install an outdoor faucet at my lake front, which is 150 ft , down a decent slope. The faucet will be unused and drained in the winter time, I was planning on tapping close to my main, installing a shut off valve and out my house and into my trench down to a simple post mounted spigot. My question is would PEX be acceptable for outdoor, buried use? It's fairly simple plan but i wanted to just ask the pros for some insightful advice before I may run into any unforeseen problems.


I know PEX has an issue with direct or indirect sunlight, so I would think it is not recommended for outside use. I would use standard black poly well pipe. You can get it in smaller sizes at irrigation supply stores and they will be able to set you up with what you need to make it work.

Drained pipes

Hi!
We have a vacation house for sale that we are not using right now. We drained the pipes last winter before we shut it down and decided to try and sell it this past spring. Needless to say it's not sellng. Should we turn the water on and redrain in the fall or should we just leave it drained?


If I was a buyer, I'd want to be able to test the major systems in the house as part of the inspection process, water included. That said, leaving the water off I wouldn't think is likely scaring people away. While house hunting myself, I don't think I ever turned on a faucet, ever.

I'd consider other options as to why the house isn't selling... curb appeal, general upkeep, price, advertising, effort that the realtor is putting into it, etc.